Tips change oil shock

Tips change oil shock

for motor rider megapro felt suspension in front of the motor
all right soft caw if is invited pass by 'policeman sleep's or fit motor bend asa shaky, big possibility moment it oil shock breaker the motor is replaced with newly.

right easy and can do it self (if fail bring to repair shop hehe), next sequence the work is submitted by andi:

first of course don't forget to buy the oil formerly, brand showa size 160ml
two cans, one the price can around $2

1. dislodged formerly all that nempel at stick pretend like wheel, kaliper brake mudguard and gear speedometer.

2. longgarin bold enclosing on (spacious origin aja let can twist With hand), dislodged stick shock from trilateral pincers.

3. open enclosing on that melonggarin a while ago, out per, shakes upside down stick shock and the tube a while ago sampe caw there again secretory oil.

4. reenter per after previous cleaned with clean napkin.

5. insert new oil, enclosing return enclosing on. (if wear brand jumbo, its contents one full bottle to one tube, so to want two total tubes, caw know kalo showa what does its contents canful).

6. reset at trilateral pincers, tighten trilateral, tighten bold enclosing on, pair wheel, master brake and mudguard, wash hand, to cafe buy indomi, ripe sampe mateng, let it be rather cold, eat in front of tivi hehe. . .

addition, before removed, i look at, kok shock tall half, obvious there" vacuum" at one of [the] shock, probably because the air out few via gap oil seal. my suggestion, sometimes open enclosing on in wheel condition and mudguard is removed (to let to hang free) to take outside" vacuum" .

sometimes we are lazy takes air is remained insides tube shock ste fill oil shock to take outside air is easy. . . ask please your friend, especially yg body rather sturdy. . : d

its way. .
motor standart middle with shock in front of pair at trilateral he saggy bold enclosing tube shock. . unnecessary up to free, enough saggy

your friend is yg body sturdy that rises to sit to on tanki while second his arms depress bar goes
finally shock go down right flat and the left

tighten to return bold enclosing shock with your sturdy friend position stills on tank
neat. . shock more softer

Labels: Motorcycle Repair

Prevent dirty carburetor

Prevent dirty carburetor

motor breaks down, difficult bringed life. make civilian certain think there not neat in engine. this is not yet sure true. can, mother curry it from found dust or dirt up to fuel doesn't flow properly.

" appropriate investigation, disease that in motor in this time more than carburetor, " ungkap wind, engine engine 'doctor from pt. yamaha indonesia motor gold (ykmi) moment at meet menyela-sela exhibition jakarta motor show (jms) yesterday.

carburetor doesn't work well, because by dozens motor owner that consider unimportant. they are very rare clean component. aware new motor owner, after the motor so difficult bringed life. to avoid problem likes this. there are some trik that must be done motor owner.

try to buy fuel at official petrol, although the distance rather far from house, because by dozens motor owner interested buy fuel in bottle that sold existing retailer with the house location. unconsciously, fuel get from retailer future evoke problem. often fuel time mixed and impure again. even less bottle not clean. dust or dirt exist in bottle come into motor tank, then flow to carburetor. dust and or dirt final clog carburetor hole. finally, fuel doesn't flow, so that there is no ignition, motor even also so difficult bringed life. so dust or dirt must be throwed away. but before clean carburetor, it is better clean motor tank with fuel cock (tank key) so that rust exist in castaway tank. then clean carburetor, open all existing nuts. dust off or dirt menempel in carburetor with petrol. after clean, breeze hole so that there is no dust or dirt remained.

clean sparkplug
don't forget, clean sparkplug, especially dirt menempel between needle and head with at sparkplug stomach. do treatment likes this as often as may be. if all this be done all engines innards will work optimal and engine burning result even also good will return. motor even also most efficacious moment at will animate.

Labels: Motorcycle Repair

Tips clean motor

Tips clean motor

care beloved motor is fun activity to fill day off. unnecessary long time, enough 10 minutes your favorite vehicle returns seen to like new.

1. as prefix begins from 'oily parts', suspension for example, wheel, and engine. use special cleaner that is sold at automotive stores or suggested by automotive magazine. when clean oil remainder that cling, use soft brush to prevents scratch. syringe suspension and engine with dirt remover special liquid for motor. koid use detergen commonly use for household use. ingredient that implied in detergent can cause korosi.

2. syringe entire motor parts with cleaner and motor stain remover.

3. use interval, syringe slowly entire motor parts with clean water. after finished, dry with soft napkin or napkin berbahan chamois usually rust colored. dry soon to avoid water stain.

4. bast chromium laminated motor parts, alumunium, stainless steel, and paint laminated parts. ingredients pemoles this is available at supermarket or automotive store.

5. after polished merata, clean with dry napkin soft.

6. body and engine now kinclong. tyre turn necessary polished. use tyre cleaner shampoo to wash clean tyre from soil remainder, dust, and dirt menempel. wash with warm water then quick dries with napkin to avoid water stain in tyre bar. afterwards, use polish tyre so that more shine.

7. if your motor uses glass in front of, don't forget to clean glass with warm water that mixed soap. afterwards, direct dry.

8. latest, give oil/lubricant for your motor chain. lubricant a kind of this can be found at automotive store or motor repair shop.

Labels: Motorcycle Repair

Install a Trac Dynamics extended swingarm

Going Long
How To: Install a Trac Dynamics extended swingarm
Photography by by the Author

1: In order to remove the stock crush sleeve, tap out one of the bearings.

The biggest challenge to going fast on a high-horsepower motorcycle like the Hayabusa is putting power to the ground. Get on the gas hard and most times either the rear wheel spins up or you loft the front, both of which slow you down. Lowering the bike to keep the center of gravity as close to the ground as possible only goes so far to combat this problem. A longer swingarm may be just the ticket for your hard-launch dreams. Aftermarket companies such as Trac Dynamics sell swingarms in varying lengths (from stock to as much as 14 inches over, most adjustable), with prices starting at $995.

Swapping out the OE swinger for a six-inch stretched version is a fairly easy endeavor. Since you'll be taking off the rear suspension, you'll need a jack or a bike lift to support the bike's rear end after you remove the rear stand. A tie-down (or two) thrown over a rafter will act as a safety when attached to the back end. Remove the rear wheel. Removing the exhaust system's canisters and S-bends isn't necessary, but life is so much easier with them out of the way. Now focus your attention on the shock and linkage. Unbolt the bottom of the shock from the rocker. Remove the bolt securing the bottom of the tie rods. Rest the back of the swingarm on the floor while you extricate the pivot from the frame.

2: Some mechanics like to use red Loctite as a lubricant when installing new bearings. When it dries, the bearings will stay put.

Although Trac Dynamics' swingarm ships with its own bearings, you'll need to extract at least one of the OE bearings to access the crush sleeve that resides inside the pivot between the two bearings. Remember, the moment you take that first whack at the bearing race, the bearing is junk. Never reuse bearings--buy new ones if your new swingarm doesn't already come with them. While you can go Neanderthal on the old bearing to get it out, heating the pivot with a propane torch makes the job of tapping out the bearing much easier. Once the pivot is heated, most mechanics are able to get the bearings out with a drift (or a flathead screwdriver) and a hammer--all without breaking a sweat. Insert the drift into the side of the swingarm pivot opposite from the bearing you want to press out. If you can't catch the lip of the inner race because of the internal spacer, a flathead screwdriver may help. With the drift on the inner race, give the bearing a whack or two until it moves slightly. Now switch to the other side of the bearing and repeat. Essentially, you are walking the bearing out of the hub. When the bearing pops out, set the crush sleeve aside for later.

Installing a new bearing is pretty simple. You can use a bearing driver set or a socket that has the same outer diameter as the bearing's outer race. If you're unable to find a suitable socket, you can always use the old bearing. The idea is to never tap directly on the bearing itself. To ease locating the bearing in the pivot, some mechanics will place the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours. Others simply apply a little lubricant to the bearing. Tap the bearing until it is in the pivot flush with the outer edge. Slip the crush sleeve into the pivot and install the other bearing. Press the linkage bearings into place to give the tie rods something to pivot on.

3: Once you've installed the bearings, the new swingarm pops in the same way the old one came out. Now would be a good time to add lowering links.

Next, pack the bearings by pressing grease into the space between the rollers with your finger. Keep packing in the lube until you're sure the space behind the rollers is full. Press on the grease seals you took off the old swinger. Take the swingarm and slide it into the frame. Loosely assemble all the bolts for the swingarm pivot, tie rods and linkage. Torque the bolts to spec. Set the chain adjusters to hold the axle blocks in the appropriate position. Before you mount the wheel, you'll probably have to trim (or remove) the rear fender if your bike isn't already equipped with a fender eliminator. Now, mount the wheel.

Since the swingarm is significantly longer, you'll need to custom-cut your chain. Wrap the chain around the sprockets and mark where the ends meet. If you plan to dragrace in a class with a maximum wheelbase, set the wheel in position for that length and cut the chain one link shorter than the chain measures out. Street riders can simply cut the chain at the most convenient link. Don't forget to install a longer brake line before you practice your launches.

4: To ease setup, measure and place the axle blocks before you mount the wheel. Note the clever block design: The front hole is for the first half of the six-inch adjustment range, while the rearward hole moves the wheel way back.

•Time: 1-2 hours

•Cost: $995

•Tools: Wrenches, sockets, torque wrench, front and rear stand, bike jack, hammer, drift, blowtorch, red thread lock, bearing grease, chain cutter/rivet tool

•Parts: Aftermarket swingarm, swingarm bearings (if required), longer rear brake line, longer chain

•Tip: Set your wheelbase before cutting the new chain

•Performance gain: Better traction for launches

•Complementary modifications: Install lowering links, lower front end and air shifter

•Contact information: Trac Dynamics, (661) 295-1956, http://www.tracdynamics.com/

5: For bikes like the Hayabusa, removing the countershaft cover can be a real pain. By using a piece of welding wire, you can simply pull the new chain around the countershaft sprocket without removing the cover.